About:
Dr. Bharatkumar Bhate is M.S. General Surgeon (Gold Medalist) by qualification with an experience of 30,000+ operations and is based at Rajkot, Gujarat. He is an avid reader and a passionate writer. In this blog, he shares his travel experiences and creative writings.
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M.P. Tour : Chapter 10
BANDHAVGARH FOREST
We left Panna Tiger Reserve at about 12.15 pm with mixed feelings. We had taken a packed lunch from our M.P. Tourism hotel at Panna, and started heading for a long journey of 5.30 hours to Bandhavgarh. On the way, we saw the Pandav waterfall which is described separately.
At about 2.00 pm, we reached a Midway Treat Restaurant run by M.P. Tourism which was decent with clean washrooms. We had opened our packed lunch here and then proceeded ahead.
The entry to Bandhavgadh is 5-7 km before the actual forest entry and our MP Tourism hotel was just opposite the Tala Gate. We reached at about 7.15 pm and checked in our room.
Reaching Bandhavgarh National Park is not so difficult. Umaria (27 km) is the closest railway station, which is well connected to Jabalpur, Katni, Satna, and other cities. Trains from several major cities like Howrah and Delhi halt here.
There are many hotels, lodges and resorts to accommodate tourists of every budget.
There are many hotels, lodges and resorts to accommodate tourists of every budget.
Our MP Tourism 'White Tiger Resort' had many types of rooms. Our room was large with nice furniture. It was on the ground floor of twin adjoining cottages. The first floor had no room but a swing and other facilities to relax. Children play area was a large one with many facilities. This resort is a large one and perhaps the best of all MP Tourism hotels. This is an ideal place to stay for 2-3 nights and do multiple forest Safaris.
We were lucky to have an entertainment show of folk dance by local villagers. It was very exciting and videos are posted to share with you. Click on below links to watch the videos.
We were lucky to have an entertainment show of folk dance by local villagers. It was very exciting and videos are posted to share with you. Click on below links to watch the videos.
Video 1:
Video 2: Watch on Facebook by clicking this link - https://www.facebook.com/DrBhateRajkot/videos/910363833288389/
Next morning, we were ready by 5.30 am and had tea. We collected packed breakfast and entered the forest through Tala Gate, in a Safari vehicle on a sharing basis. Our original ID proof was checked.
The three main core zones of the national park are Tala, Magdhi and Khitauli. Tala is the richest zone in terms of biodiversity, mainly tigers.
Let me write something about booking the safari.
(1) Booking opens after the rainy season in October. Check on the official website.
(2) Open Jeep Safari can be booked online on a sharing basis for 6 tourists or a whole vehicle for an individual small family.
(3) Whole day Safari: You can also book Jeep Safari for the whole day, from dawn to evening, by paying Rs.10,000/- deposit.
(4) Canter Safari is a bus Safari carrying 12 to 24 tourists. It is successful at Ranthambore and recently introduced at Kanha, Bandhavgadh and Pench. However, online booking is not done. Somehow we did not see any canter during our trip.
(5) Elephant safari is available at Tala gate of Bandhavgarh forest. It is a joy ride. For professional photographers and filming, this is a blessing. The chances of Tiger sightings are high during elephant safari. We saw trained elephants but nobody was doing safari. We have enjoyed such a safari at Chitwan (Nepal) and have future plans at Kaziranga, Sri Lanka and Kenya.
(4) Canter Safari is a bus Safari carrying 12 to 24 tourists. It is successful at Ranthambore and recently introduced at Kanha, Bandhavgadh and Pench. However, online booking is not done. Somehow we did not see any canter during our trip.
(5) Elephant safari is available at Tala gate of Bandhavgarh forest. It is a joy ride. For professional photographers and filming, this is a blessing. The chances of Tiger sightings are high during elephant safari. We saw trained elephants but nobody was doing safari. We have enjoyed such a safari at Chitwan (Nepal) and have future plans at Kaziranga, Sri Lanka and Kenya.
During ancient times, the territory of Bandhavgadh National Park was ruled by the Maharaja of Rewa. His fort on top of the mountain is no less than a royal heritage. This ancient fort is known to be the gift to Lakshmana from Lord Rama himself. Territory is now the land of Royal Bengal Tigers, the mighty kings of the jungles. Bandhavgarh National Park has many ancient man-made caves with rock paintings and inscriptions. These are around 2000 years old.
Spread over 1536 sq. km., Bandhavgarh National Park has a current core area spread over 716 square kilometres. A mix of Sal trees, tropical greens and grasslands are found all over the forest.
The chances of spotting tigers are more at Bandhavgarh as the 105 square kilometres of park area open to tourists is reported to have 22 tigers, a density of one tiger for every 4.77 square kilometre. The other 38 tigers are in the reserve area of the forest. All tigers are said to be the family of grandparents tiger 'Charger' and tigress 'Sita'. After Charger, the next popular tiger was B2 who became a poster boy of Bengal Tigers in India.
Bandhavgarh forest is home for many scarce animals like sloth bears and leopards that are hardly found anywhere else. You may come across other fauna species like striped hyenas, sambar, spotted deer, Bengal Fox, wild cats, mongoose, bandicoot rat, wild boars, Asiatic jackals Nilgai, Chinkara, Chausingha, and Indian bison.
Spread over 1536 sq. km., Bandhavgarh National Park has a current core area spread over 716 square kilometres. A mix of Sal trees, tropical greens and grasslands are found all over the forest.
The chances of spotting tigers are more at Bandhavgarh as the 105 square kilometres of park area open to tourists is reported to have 22 tigers, a density of one tiger for every 4.77 square kilometre. The other 38 tigers are in the reserve area of the forest. All tigers are said to be the family of grandparents tiger 'Charger' and tigress 'Sita'. After Charger, the next popular tiger was B2 who became a poster boy of Bengal Tigers in India.
Bandhavgarh forest is home for many scarce animals like sloth bears and leopards that are hardly found anywhere else. You may come across other fauna species like striped hyenas, sambar, spotted deer, Bengal Fox, wild cats, mongoose, bandicoot rat, wild boars, Asiatic jackals Nilgai, Chinkara, Chausingha, and Indian bison.
It is said that about 250 species of birds are found in this forest. The richness and tranquility of grasslands invites pairs of sarus cranes to breed in the rainy season. People say that you are more lucky if you see a couple of sarus cranes even though you have not seen a tiger. I am perhaps very lucky to have seen the sarus crane in Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary. Luck was very favourable towards me, as I had heard a delightful and peculiar sound produced by the cranes. However, this is a 14 year old story when smartphones were not available. Hence, instead of digital memory, I have saved it in the immortal memories of my heart.
We could see many other animals like Elephants, Chinkara, Chausingha, Hyenas, Sambar, Spotted Deer, Wild Cats and Mongoose. Tiger was not spotted by our team.
Maharaja Mastand Singh of Reva captured the first white tiger in this region in 1951. This white tiger, 'Mohan', is now stuffed and its body is on display in the palace museum of the Maharajas of Rewa.
I have not heard of anybody so far who has spotted 'White Tiger' during safari. This unique type of 'White Tiger' is found only at Bandhavgarh in the world.
We had breakfast break at about 9.00 am at a place where many hut-like shacks were ready with tea - coffee and food. We opened our packed breakfast. The washrooms were clean.
I experienced a few interesting things at Bandhavgarh:
(1) I saw one unusual variety of large trees here. They are dependent on neighbouring trees for support and food. They are called parasite plants. They behave like house tenants who one day become owners of the house. The photo is posted.
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(2) Few Jeeps were returning from one track and asking others not to go. The reason was a fight between a crocodile and a bison in the middle of the road. Actually this is a rare opportunity to see but we missed it because the guide said it is risky.
(3) Tourists of one Jeep yesterday saw a tiger sitting on the banks of a water stream. Many other Jeeps crowded there within a few minutes and all could see the tiger. There seems to be some communication system amongst jeeps.
(4) Last night, one tourist jeep saw a tiger comfortably and recorded a video. Soon the tiger disappeared behind thick forest. This group of tourists met me at the waiting room of Jabalpur Railway Station, and transferred me their video. I have posted it.
(5) Two days ago, a jeep carrying 6 passengers passed through a tiger. Surprisingly, only two tourists in that jeep saw the tiger. Before the other four could see him, the large cat escaped into the forest. Others were watching peacocks in the opposite direction at that time. How unfortunate!!!
Before I conclude, let me warn you all my friends that do not do the safari of Bandhavgarh if you have a spine or vertebral disc problem. The roads are VERY BAD. However chances to spot tigers are higher than any other forest in India.
Have a nice time till we meet at Bhedaghat, Jabalpur.
- Dr. Bharatkumar Bhate