(08) Madhya Pradesh: Khajuraho Temples

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Dr. Bharatkumar Bhate is M.S. General Surgeon (Gold Medalist) by qualification with an experience of 30,000+ operations and is based at Rajkot, Gujarat. He is an avid reader and a passionate writer. In this blog, he shares his travel experiences and creative writings.

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M.P. Tour : Chapter 8
Khajuraho Temples

THE KANDARIYA MAHADEV TEMPLE  (कंदारिया महादेव मंदिर), Meaning "the Great God of the Cave", is the largest and most ornate Hindu temple in the medieval temple group found at Khajuraho. It is in the western part of Khajuraho. The Kandariya Mahadeva temple was built during the reign of Vidyadhar (King Ganda1003-1035 CE).


Vidhyadhara was a powerful ruler who fought Mahmud of Ghazni in the first offensive launched by him in 1019. This battle was not conclusive and Mahmud had to return back. Mahmud again waged war against Vidhyadhara in 1022. He attacked the fort of Kalinjar. The siege of the fort by Mahmud was again unsuccessful. The war was called off and Mahmud and Vidhyadhara had a truce and parted by exchanging gifts. Vidhyadhara celebrated his success over Mahmud by building the Kaṇḍāriyā Mahādeva Temple, dedicated to his family deity Shiva.

Shiva is the God who destroys and recycles life, thereby controlling the cosmic dance of time, evolution and dissolution.

This temple is characteristically built over a plan of 31 metres (102 ft) in length and 20 metres (66 ft) in width with the main tower soaring to a height of 31 metres (102 ft), and is called the "largest and grandest temple of Khajuraho".

The superstructure of the temple above plinth is built in a steep mountain shape, symbolic of Mount Meru which is said to be the mythical source of creation of the world.

The layout of the temple is a five-part design namely Ardh-mandap, Mandap, Maha-Mandap, Antarala and finally Urusgring with kalash mounted on Shikhar. This is a common pattern of all large Hindu temples.

The lintel at the entrance of the temple has a four-armed Shiva lined by Lord Brahma, the creator and Lord Vishnu, the preserver. 

The outer wall has plenty of sculptures as already described previously.

LAXMAN TEMPLE:
Yashovarman initiated the construction of the temple but he died before it was finished. His son Dhanga completed the work and dedicated the temple in 954 C.E.


The temple is entered through an ornate entrance porch 'ardha mandapa', which leads to the main hall mandap through which one accesses the vestibule Antarala before reaching the sanctum (garbhagriha).


The central deity in garbhagriha at the Lakshmana temple is an image of Vishnu in his three-headed & four-armed sculpture form known as Vaikuntha Vishnu. The central head is of human and two sides of boar (depicting Varaha) and lion (depicting Narashima).

The sculptures within and outside the temple are well preserved. A Devi killing Mahishasur and another one of Narsimha killing Hiranyakashypu are prominent ones.

VISHWANATH TEMPLE:
This temple of western group is dedicated to Shiva who is also known as "Vishvanatha", meaning "Lord of the Universe".

The temple is believed to have been commissioned by the king Dhanga and was probably completed in 1002 CE. Dhanga built the temple after attaining a high political status as a sovereign. Its architectural style is similar to that of the Lakshmana Temple and the Kandariya Mahadev temple. It features several sculptures of various deities, Apsaras (celestial maidens), couples making love, and mythical creatures.

According to some scholars, there is a possibility that Dhanga built two temples, one with a stone linga of Shiva and another with an emerald linga.

The sundaris (Apsaras) are shown performing various day-to-day activities, such as applying sindoor (vermilion powder) to their foreheads and kajal to their eyes, wringing their hair after bathing, playing flute, plucking thorn from their feet, dancing, admiring themselves in a mirror, dressing or simply posing provocatively.

CHATRABHUJ TEMPLE:
Chaturbhuj Temple (चतुर्भुज मंदिर) is dedicated to the God Vishnu. Chatrabhuj is one of many names of Vishnu having four arms. This temple is also known as Jatakari Temple (जटकारी) as it is situated in the village of Jatakari in the southern area of Khajuraho.

The temple was built by Yasovarman in the year 1100. This is the only temple in Khajuraho which lacks erotic sculptures.

The temple consists of a sanctum without vestibule or mandapa and an entrance porch.The temple stands on a Modest (chabutara).

The main idol in the temple is of four-armed Lord Vishnu. It is 2.7 meters (almost 10 feet) in height. This idol is south faced as the favorite location of Vishnu. Same south facing plan is incorporated in Angkor Wat Temple in Cambodia.

JAIN TEMPLES OF KHAJURAHO:
The Jain temples of Khajuraho are a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A number of Jain temples have survived in the east part of Khajuraho in various states of preservation. Out of 31 Jain Temples, 16 are identified. However, from an architectural point of view, only Parshvanath, the Adinath and the Shantinath temples are relatively more important and noteworthy temples. The temple of Parshvanath, dominating the walled enclosure of the Jain Group, is probably older than the main temples of Khajuraho. The temple is believed to have been constructed by a prominent Jain family between 950 and 970 CE, during the reign of the Chandela king Dhanga.

The Jain temples are built in the same style, sculptures, carving as Hindu temples.

A key difference between the Jain temples and most other Khajuraho temples is that:
(1) the Jain temples are alive with active praying and worship. Digambar Jain monks still visit from time to time and can be seen meditating, studying or preaching.
(2) there are no erotic sculptures on walls of any Jain temples.

Despite being a Jain temple, the outer walls also depict Vaishnavite themes including sculptures of Lord Vishnu-Lakshmi, Rama-Sita, Balarama-Revati, Parashurama, Hanuman, Brahma and Yama.

OTHER TEMPLES VISITED AT KHAJURAHO:



Friends, here I conclude my description of Khajuraho. Till then, have a nice time.


- Dr. Bharatkumar Bhate